TROUBLESHOOTING

  • Nozzle clogged
  • The nozzle heating failed
  • Print Head Stuck/Cannot move
  • Print head hit the framework
  • Filament Feeder Motor make intermittent noise
  • The Z-axis movement of the build plate is abnormal.
  • Problem with first layer printing
  • The edge is lifted or warped, or the print cracked while printing with ABS filament
  • Model surface is loose with crack
  • Flow line problem
  • Object surface is unsmooth
  • Object is easy to fall off
  • There is the joint dislocation between the parts while dual color printing
  • Failed prototyping of small model

Nozzle clogged

1. There is the impurity in the filament, which is stacked in the nozzle.
Please clean the nozzle by the needle; or take the nozzle off and clean inside of the nozzle by needle and drill.
2. The nozzle is overheated causing the filament carbonized inside.
Please clean the nozzle by needle; or take the nozzle off and clean inside of the nozzle by needle and drill.
3. The deformation of the nozzle hole occurred by external force.
Please replace the nozzle.

The nozzle heating failed

1.The heating tube connection is too loose.
Please tighten the connection.

2. Heating tube/ temperature controller/ power tube damage
Please check if one of the nozzles works well, but the other one cannot be heated, please troubleshoot by the following methods:

1) Open the machine case, and find out the connectors of two heating tubes, exchange the two connectors, heat the nozzle again. If the failed one can work now, it means one heating tube is broken and needs to be replaced;
2) If after exchanging the two heating tube, the failed nozzle still can’t work, please exchange the heating tubes back, and try to exchange the connection of the two temperature controller, heat the nozzle again, if the failed nozzle can work, it means one temperature controller is broken and needs to be replaced;
3)If the above cannot solve the problem, it means it should be the problem of the power tube on the main board, please replace it.

Print head hit the framework

The connecting wires of limit switch get loose or the limit switch is broken.

Please check if the wires on the hit side, if the wires connecting limit switch and main board are loose. If yes, you need to pull out the wires and reinsert. If no, that means the limit switch is broken and need to be replaced.

Filament Feeder Motor make intermittent noise

1. The clamp of the feeding device is too tight.
Loosen the screw of the clamp.
2. Nozzle clogging, causing the filament not to be fed smoothly.
Please clean the nozzle with drill and needle.

The Z-axis movement of the build plate is abnormal.

1. The top of the Z-axis screw is loose.
Please reinforced screw at the top of the Z-axis screw.

2. Z-axis motor loose connections.
Please open the base to re-plug the motor cables.

3. Z-axis screw need lubrication.
Please add oil to the Z-axis screw.

Problem with first layer printing

Q: The filament doesn't stick onto the build plate.
- A1: The gap between nozzle and build plate is too big.
- A2:The build plate has not been leveled yet.
- A3: Kapton tape has not been sticked on the build plate yet;
or the non-sticky top layer of the Kapton tape is not removed.
- A4: The first layer’s height is too small, recommended setting as ≥0.2

Q: Little filament sticks onto the build plate.
A: The gap between nozzle and build plate too small which may cause the nozzle clogged.

Q: No filament output from the nozzle.
A: The filament has not entered into the end of the nozzle yetwhen you feed the filament.

The edge is lifted or warped, or the print cracked while printing with ABS filament

Please keep the build plate heated continuously; Change a new Kapton tape;

Slow down the printing speed of first layer; Use the enclosure plate to keep the constant temperature while printing; Avoid air condition’s blowing directly; Inside ventilation should not be so strong.

Model surface is loose with crack

The layer thickness is too big; Or printing speed is too high( the nozzle temperature needs to do responded balance to have a faster printing speed); Or the temperature is too low; Or the wall thickness is too think; Or 3D model is not completely closed solid; Or the feeding motor’s fixing screw is too loose; Or wrong choice of filament diameter; Or filament quality is poor; Or the filament gets stuck and could not be fed smoothly.

Flow line problem

Temperature is too high, or the filament is carbonized or liquefied(PLA will get liquefied if over-high temperature, ABS will get carbonized if over-high temperature).

If still cannot solve the problem, please contact with our technical support team at support@mankati.com

Object surface is unsmooth

Reduce the retraction travel; Or reduce minimal extrusion before retracting.

Note: Please reduce the retraction amount if retracting frequently.

Object is easy to fall off

Having not used the Kapton tape or the Kapton tape loses stickiness; Or the model bottom is too small, you can use a hot melting glue gun to help; Adding support structure to support model; Using the feature in MankatiUM of Advance-Quality-Cut off object bottom.

There is the joint dislocation between the parts while dual color printing.

Adjusting the feature of the relative position coordinate in MankatiUM: "Machine-Machine settings-Extruder 2".

Failed prototyping of small model

If printing a small model, the extruder will always move in a small space, so the heat will be concentrated in the model, and hard to be distributed.

That's why it is hard to print the very small model.

The solution is to print 3-4 pieces of the small model together. If so, the extruder will move among different models, leaving time for heat dissipation.